The essential tool for me is Visualboy Advance's Map Viewer which, as Maxim stated, allows you to view the content of the four map layers in memory. It has helped me so much that I now find all the other emulators deficient for not having something similar.
I think there was a version of FCEUltra with extra debugging options that allowed you to see a similar map but for the NES but I haven't tried it enough to know it's true usability.
What I'm really interested in are hacks/cheat codes that would allow you to move either the camera or the player's character wherever you want to. I don't know if one of those is easier than the others, but judging from what you said regarding your Sonic SMS maps, I'd assume it would be easier to move the main character than the camera.
Incidently, for the past few weeks, I've been trying to track down/contact someone named Nitsuja who's responsible, among other things, for creating a lot of incredible speedrun videos over at tasvideos.org, and, the part that interests me, made a hacked version of VBA that allowed him to move around the maps in all three Sonic Advance games, with which he created maps for all the stages which are posted at
www.soniccenter.org (but sadly, he reduced them entirely too much in size; getting the full size maps from him would me awesome).
Anyway Maxim, since you seem to be one of the kings of hacking here, do you have any practical example on how to make such a camera hack/cheat that we simpletons would understand?
---
"With the first link, the chain is forged. The first speech censored, the first thought forbidden, the first freedom denied, chains us all irrevocably." [...] The first time any man's freedom is trodden on, we're all damaged. - Captain Jean-Luc Picard
Current projects: Sonic CD (Sega CD), Mega Man V (GB), Mega Man Zero (GBA), Battletoads (NES)